SKU: TNW-SHAH-304
Categories: Seeds & Plants
Slice this watermelon open and the surprise is inside: instead of the usual red, the flesh glows a warm golden-yellow. The yellow watermelon is prized for its notably sweet, almost honey-like flavour, crisp and refreshing, with the same dark-green striped rind that makes the reveal even more striking. It is a favourite novelty melon for summer tables, fresh fruit platters and colourful salads, and an eye-catching talking point at any gathering — a delicious twist on the classic watermelon you already love.
This is a warm-season, very frost-sensitive crop, so timing matters. Direct-seed one to two weeks after the last frost once the soil is warm — above roughly 21 C — or start transplants indoors about four to five weeks ahead and set them out only after frost danger has passed and the soil reaches 18-21 C. Sow seed about 1.3-2.5 cm deep, around 2.5 cm when planting into hills. For germination the soil should be at least 16-18 C at 10 cm depth, with 21-32 C being ideal; at around 25 C seedlings emerge in about five days, while germination is very slow below 21 C. Give plants room: space rows about 1.8-2.4 m apart and individual plants about 0.9-1.8 m apart, allowing roughly 2.2 m² per plant. In hills, plant 4-5 seeds per hill with hills about 1.8-2.4 m apart. Choose a hot, sunny spot offering full sun — about 8-10 hours of direct sunlight a day. In Egypt's climate, sow or transplant in the Nile Delta and Lower Egypt (Cairo, Alexandria) from mid-February to April once the soil has warmed past about 18 C and frost is gone, for a May-July harvest; transplants can be started indoors in January to gain a few weeks. In warmer Upper Egypt (Minya, Asyut, Luxor, Aswan) sowing can begin from late January to March for an April-June harvest, and a late-summer crop sown in August for an October-November harvest is also feasible. Avoid sowing from November to January in the Delta, when the soil is too cool and occasional frost can kill seedlings.
Work a complete fertilizer into the soil before planting: a 5-10-10 at about 1.5 kg per 100 m², or a 10-10-10 or 13-13-13 at roughly 1.5 kg per 10 m². Before the vines begin to run, side-dress with nitrogen — for example 34-0-0 at 1 lb per 100 ft of row, or calcium nitrate (15.5-0-0) at 2 lb per 100 ft — then feed a second time after bloom while the fruit is developing. Go easy on nitrogen, though: too much delays fruiting and can cause hollow heart.
Keep the soil uniformly moist but never saturated, watering deeply and infrequently — about 2.5-5 cm per week, ideally through a drip line or soaker hose. Good moisture is most critical early on and during flowering and fruit set; in the last week before the fruit ripens, reduce or stop watering, since overwatering dilutes the flavour. Thin direct-seeded hills to about two strong plants each roughly a week after germination. Watermelons resent root disturbance, so start transplants in cells or pots and set them out while small with the rootball intact, watering them in with a gentle starter or fish-emulsion solution that won't burn tender roots. Watch for cucumber beetles (striped and spotted), squash bugs, aphids, spider mites, thrips and caterpillars such as rind and pickle worms and cutworms; cucumber beetles do the most harm at the seedling stage and spread disease, so manage them with floating row covers — removed at flowering so bees can pollinate — or an approved insecticide such as pyrethrin. Common diseases include anthracnose, gummy stem blight, powdery and downy mildew, Fusarium wilt, cucurbit viruses and root-knot nematodes; rotate your beds and avoid planting watermelon or related cucurbits on the same ground for at least three years. Harvest when the curly tendril nearest the fruit stem turns brown and dries, the ground spot shifts from greenish-white to a creamy yellow or orange, the rind turns dull and loses its gloss, and a thump gives a dull, hollow sound rather than a high ring — typically about 35 days from fruit set and roughly 70-90 days from planting depending on the variety.
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