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Coral Pepper Seeds 10 Seeds

LE85.00

A compact ornamental chili whose upward-facing pods ripen through a coral rainbow of purple, cream, orange and fiery red - beautiful in pots and genuinely hot in the kitchen.
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SKU: TNW-SHAH-363

Categories: Seeds & Plants

Tags: seeds

Coral Pepper (Capsicum annuum) is one of the most decorative chilies you can grow at home. Its small, slender pods stand upright above the foliage and ripen through a living coral rainbow - shifting from deep purple to cream, then orange and finally a glowing coral-red, so a single bushy plant carries several colours at once. The compact, well-branched habit makes it a natural fit for pots on a sunny balcony or windowsill, while the fruits themselves are no mere ornament: they pack a sharp, clean heat with a bright fruity aroma, perfect for fresh salsas, infused oils, pickles or drying into chili flakes. Equal parts houseplant and pantry crop, it earns its place for both looks and flavour.

Planting

Sow the seeds indoors or under protection about 8-10 weeks before your transplanting date (some hot types appreciate up to 12 weeks of a head start), since chilies need a long, warm season. Use a sterile, soilless germination mix and set the seed only about 0.6 cm deep. Warmth is the secret to good emergence: keep the mix around 21 C and, if you can, sit the tray on a heat mat at 27-32 C to speed and improve germination, which then takes roughly 10 days. Once the seedlings break through, move them to bright light at 16-18 C. When true leaves appear, prick them out to stand 5-8 cm apart, or pot each one on while it is still only 2-3 cm tall. Move plants outside only after the nights stay reliably above 10 C and the soil has warmed to at least about 18 C. In the open ground, space plants roughly 38-45 cm apart (30-60 cm in rows about 75-90 cm apart for field rows); in containers, one plant per pot of about 22 cm is ideal. Give them the warmest, sunniest spot you have - full sun, at least 6 hours a day and ideally 8-10.

Fertilizing

Before transplanting, work a balanced fertilizer such as 10-10-10 or 13-13-13 into the soil at about 1 kg per 9 square metres, adjusting phosphorus and potassium to suit your soil, and aim for a soil pH of 6.0-6.5. Once the first fruits have set, side-dress with nitrogen to keep growth and fruiting going, but go easy - too much nitrogen gives you a bushy, leafy plant that is slow to bear. For plants in pots or under glass, start feeding weekly with a high-potassium liquid fertilizer (a tomato feed works well) as soon as flowering begins, which pushes the plant toward fruit rather than foliage.

Care

Steady moisture is key. If the plants are not getting about 2.5 cm of rain a week, soak the soil thoroughly at least once weekly and keep the moisture even; water at the base with drip or a soaker hose rather than over the leaves to keep disease at bay. Watch for the usual chili pests - cutworms, aphids, tomato hornworms and stink bugs - and for diseases such as bacterial leaf spot and bacterial wilt, plus the physiological troubles of blossom-end rot and sunscald. Fruits are generally ready about 70-85 days after transplanting. Pick the first pods promptly once they reach full size to encourage more to set; you can harvest them green or let them ripen on to full colour for a hotter flavour. Bear in mind that leaving the coral pods to colour up fully does intensify the heat but suppresses new flowers, cutting total yield by a quarter or more - so picking some green keeps the plant productive.

In Egypt, treat this as a warm-season crop on a spring schedule. Start seeds under protection from late December to February, then transplant once the cold spells pass. In the Nile Delta and Lower Egypt, transplant from late February into March for a harvest from May into early summer; in warmer Upper Egypt, you can move a few weeks earlier, from mid-February, where the soil warms sooner. Because Egyptian summers regularly climb above 30 C and suppress flowering, aim to have plants setting fruit before the peak heat, with the heaviest harvest in late spring to early summer. A second autumn crop is possible too: sow in July-August under shade and transplant in late August-September for a cooler-weather harvest into November-December. Just shield young transplants from any January cold snaps, especially in the Delta.


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