Seeds 20 Seed Anise Hyssop (Agastache foeniculum)

Anise Hyssop (Agastache foeniculum) is a standout in the mint family, prized for leaves that release a sweet, warm aroma of anise and licorice when brushed or crushed, distinct from the cool sharpness of common mint. Above its soft green foliage it lifts slender spikes of lavender-purple blooms that hum with bees and pollinators all season, making it as much an ornamental as a culinary herb. The fragrant young leaves and flowers are a favourite for herbal teas, infusions and as a sweet garnish, while the upright bloom spikes earn it a place in the flower border.

Planting

Start seed indoors in spring, roughly 6 to 8 weeks before your planting-out date, and move plants outside once all danger of frost has passed. Because the seed needs light to sprout, simply press it onto the surface of the growing medium and leave it uncovered rather than burying it. Keep the medium moist and well lit, and germination follows in about 10 to 14 days at 22 to 24 C (around two weeks at about 20 C). Set plants about 45 cm apart, or 30 to 45 cm apart in rows spaced 45 cm; mature clumps reach roughly 45 to 90 cm tall and, like all mints, spread vigorously by underground rhizomes. Give it full sun to partial shade with at least 4 to 6 hours of light a day, knowing it is most productive in full sun. In Egypt the best times to establish it are autumn (September to November) and late winter to early spring (February to March), while planting into the peak summer heat of June to August is best avoided. In the Nile Delta, set out seedlings or rooted cuttings from late September through November so roots settle in over the mild winter, with a second window in February to March; in warmer Upper Egypt, favour an October to November planting plus the winter-to-early-spring slot.

Fertilizing

This herb thrives in rich soil that is high in organic matter, so work plenty of compost or well-rotted manure into the bed before planting; in soil that is already well amended it may need no extra feeding at all. Aim for a slightly acidic soil pH of 6.0 to 6.5. Where feeding is wanted, apply nitrogen from spring into early summer to match the flush of active growth. Go easy, though: too much nitrogen pushes soft, weak growth that attracts spider mites and aphids and can make disease worse.

Care

Keep the root zone consistently moist but never waterlogged, and don't let the plants wilt between waterings. Water the soil directly rather than the leaves to cut down on leaf disease, and water deeply rather than giving frequent light sprinklings; drip irrigation is better than overhead sprinklers. In the hottest Egyptian months, partial or afternoon shade together with steady deep watering helps prevent wilting and spider-mite outbreaks. Rather than relying on seed, mint is most reliably increased by division of an established clump or by rooting stem or stolon (runner) cuttings; divide clumps in spring or autumn, take softwood cuttings from new shoots in spring, and refresh plantings by dividing every 3 to 4 years to keep them vigorous. Watch for mint rust, aphids, spider mites (worse in hot, dry conditions and with excess nitrogen), blue mint beetle, mint moth and leafhoppers, plus soil-borne Verticillium wilt; dislodge aphids and mites with a strong jet of water or insecticidal soap, and always start with disease-free planting stock. Harvest leaves and soft shoot tips once plants are established, as the young tips carry the most intense flavour; the season runs from late spring into autumn. Cutting often keeps growth bushy, and for the strongest aroma cut the plant just as flower buds begin to appear. Remove flower spikes to keep the leaf flavour at its best, and after flowering cut the whole plant back to about 5 cm from the base to bring on fresh new growth.